This park exceeded our expectations, while not being the most secure (no locked gates etc), it was quite, felt safe, and for the cost, very cheap.
The facilities where top notch, while I can’t vouch for the showers as we never used them, the toilets were clean and stocked.
The campground was level, you are on gravel, with tar seal underneath, so pegging down the awning may be a problem. For us, we just put it away at night or whenever we were not there.
We spent 4 nights there, and went to the Clare valley (about 20 min away), most days for wine tasting, and a bit of gourmet food. Thoroughly enjoyed our time.
There were a few other campers there, and the local pub was good to have a drink at too. The locals friendly an all.
There is the Brinkworth Historic walk, about 2Km, which is nice to do. all about the railways which is why Brinkworth is there. Brinkworth was a junction on the Gladstone railway line.
Named after George Brinkworth, one of the land owners in the district at the time the town was the established, the town’s main street is liberally sprinkled with buildings dating back to the twilight of the 19th century, while a turntable and water tower remain as beacons to its past importance as a rail junction.
Brinkworth, which lies 32km north of the major regional town of Clare, has a population of approximately 200.
Thanks for reading our review of Brinkworth RV Park. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
After being stuck in Brisbane for nearly 3 months, due to various appointments, it is now finally time to hit the road again.
This time we will be heading to WA for Christmas / New Year, so a trip over the Nullarbor is coming up soon.
The Plan
Get to Adelaide in a timely manner. Here in Brisbane it’s November and we have been experiencing storms nearly every second day, while not severe, (I think we are just lucky where we were and got the the edges most times compared to other parts of the city), the bad parts are getting close. It’s also getting very warm and humid. Time to leave.
We decided on this part of the trip no caravan parks, low cost or free camps only. Goondiwindi Showgrounds, WikiCamps did not show much here that was dog friendly, so we went with an unpowered over night stop.
We passed through Silverton/Broken Hill on the way to the Mundi Mundi bash about 2 years ago. At that time Silverton was packed, so we just drove straight passed. It was noted that whenever we were in the area again we would stop and have a look around.
This time we plan to stay at Silverton and we want to check out the Mad Max 2 museum and have a look around, so a 2 night stay was on the cards.
Day 1 – Goondiwindi Showgrounds (B)
Our first stop after leaving Brisbane is Goondiwindi and it was raining. Rain seems to be a bit of a theme with us every time we leave Brisbane!
The drive to Goondiwindi is about 386Km, we stopped about half way at Millmerran – Lions Park. This was a nice spot to have some lunch, stretch the legs and let Shadow have a run around.
Millmerran – Lions Park
After the break we moved onto our overnight stop.
Goondiwindi Showgrounds at sunset
Once we got to the showgrounds, there were automatic boom gates that read our number plates and let us in. First time we have come across this in a showground. We did book prior to arriving.
Day 2 – Alex Trevallion Park (C)
Today is a 342Km day. For us, that is our sweet spot when it comes to travelling, not too long or too short.
Our midday stop was at Mungindi -Major Mitchell Crossing, on the NSW/QLD border. A nice area with all the amenities, toilets, bbq and picnic tables. The ladies toilet was closed. Its a really great spot for a rest.
After the break we moved onto our overnight stop at Walget.
It was at this stage we came across a dirt road. Good old Google maps, we decided to push ahead and luckily the dirt road was reasonably smooth, not too dusty and best of all did not last long before we were back on to tar-seal. Phew!
Alex Trevallion Park itself was pleasant enough and other campers pulling up gave us some peace of mind. When it comes to free camping, especially by a town, next to a main road, other campers being around make us feel better about the place.
The facilities, hot showers, toilets, bbq, even filtered water all looked reasonably new and in good condition. All this for free, amazing.
There is some artwork on one of the towers coming into town. It’s about a 1 km walk from camp and worth taking a look.
For this leg, we went the slightly longer route through Bourke, looking at Google maps, we thought the shortest route could be over dirt roads so we opted for the 10 min longer and a few extra km route instead.
This route is about 400Km, 6 hours with a stop somewhere in the middle. We chose Percy Hobson Silo Art, in Bourke for our rest stop.
The only thing here was rubbish bins, nothing else on offer at this park.
Percy Hobson Silo Art in Bourke, NSW
After our break it was onto Cobar. In WikiCamps, it comes up as Reba Park, in Google maps it’s Cobar free camp. Enter off Conduit St and you will have plenty of space to pick a site.
When we were there, there was about 6 campers/caravans. We felt safe enough to stay. While there are no amenities onsite, it is a short walk across the road to the information centre to use their toilets.
A dump point and potable water for filling tanks was just about next door to the campsite.
Cobar free camp (Reba Park)
Day 4 – Silverton Outback Camels (E)
This was going to be our longest day on the road, at 482Km, I was sure glad when we pulled up to camp.
We left early, about 8AM, had a quick look around Cobar, filled up with gas, and then on the road. We swapped drivers about every hour or so. It was tiring, as the road is straight, with not much on it.
Even with a break about half way, it felt like the road was never gong to end. We stopped at a rest spot somewhere along the road.
We finally arrived at Silverton Outback Camels mid afternoon. We set up camp and relaxed until the Ostrich came a calling to say hello and pecking our windows. Hi mate.
Day 5 – Silverton / Broken Hill (F)
This was our day to have a look around and take a break from driving. Well sort of, at least there is no towing but plenty of driving around looking at stuff.
Mad Max 2 Museum – trip down memory lane when this movie was big, I may have to watch it again.
Silverton Hotel – A small country pub, with character. We had a few beers, and a meal here.
The Living Desert, Sculpture Symposium – interesting sculptures and a good walk around NOT DOG FRIENDLY
Pro Hart Art Gallery – pretty cool gallery
Broken Hill town centre – good walk around, even visited the BHP (Broken Hill Pub), too late for lunch, had a beer instead.
A 305Km day today, so nothing too strenuous. Also today we went over the NSW/SA border. Something to note is the quarantine station is 200Km from the border.
Yes, the station is manned and they do check your caravan.
It was then on to the Peterborough RV park, a free camp on the edge of town, with no facilities, except rubbish bins. It’s a big park with plenty of space. A dump point NS toilets are in town about 1 Km away.
It was a quick trip, with a stop in Broken Hill/Silverton. It could be done in 5 days, if not towing a caravan, you could possibly cut that down to 4 days.
When towing the caravan, we travel approximately 90 – 100Km/hr, depending on road conditions, mainly around 95km/hr.
We spent 5 nights on the road. Accommodation cost us around $70 all up. Fuel approximately $900, over 2000Km and 22 hours on the road.
If you like the art work on silos, water towers, etc, and you want to see where they are and ‘mark’ them off your list, you can download the Australian Silo Art app. It will tell you if any are near you, add to a list, note the date you visited them, etc. Worth getting and it’s free – even better!
Thanks for reading Road Trip – Brisbane to Adelaide. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our monthly newsletter.
This post is going to be all about planning for that upcoming trip. Wether it is a week long holiday, or on the road for a longer period, the way you use WikiCamps is the same.
Everybody is different when it comes to planning their holiday, some people want to “wing it” , others want to to know what, where, when and how before they have left home.
Research
We use WikiCamps, mainly because it was first on the scene that was really good, there is now another app available called Camps Australia, it works more or less the same way, but I have not had much experience with it.
Both apps, wether you are on Android or Iphone are relatively cheap. WikiCamps is a one off $10, while I believe Camps Australia is about $10/year.
The best feature about these apps is the user feedback unlike a paper map, without the feedback you have no idea on what the true current condition of the campground is, quite often when you have a selected campground, there is feedback left by someone, sometimes only hours / days before.
Also safety, some places, after reading the feedback, we have avoided due to safety concerns.
WikiCamps
The first thing to do after you have installed the app, is to create an account. This will be handy for backups, and also for synchronising between different devices.
Cathy and I use the same login details, we both edit and add info to the trip as we go along, once the edits have been synchronised, then the other person can see the changes.
Creating a Trip
After creating an account, the next step before you do anything, you will need to create a trip, this is where your saved campsite(s) go. From here you can sort them, find out how far to each campsite and even estimate how much fuel it will cost.
Once your trip is saved, you can come back to it later to delete/add campsites, change the order, add notes, and more.
Below images rotate from 1 to 3.
Wikicamps create trip
1 – Select Plan
2 – Select + Create Trip
3 – Fill in the details, only the trip name is essential, then select Create trip. Go back to home Explore screen
1 – In the Explore screen select Map settings icon on the right, then you will see your trip/s you created previously, select it, now as you add campsites, the green line (your path) will be created as you go.
You are now ready to filter campsites.
Set the filters
This comes down to what you want. Now the trick here is not to select too much, otherwise campsites will en-explicable start disappearing, or not show at all, or the other way if not enough filters options selected then you wont be able to find anything, the screen will become too crowded,
Since we are in a caravan, travelling with a dog, our selection is based on that as an example.
Our filters are set to –
Caravan Parks
Campgrounds
Showgrounds
Farm Stays
Dog-friendly
Free, Donation or paid.
Below images rotate from 1 to 5.
Wikicamps create trip
1 – Explore screen showing what the icons mean, select Filters, to get to the next screen
2 – On this screen, make sure the collections and fee category are like above.
3 – scrolling down, select the accommodation type that you want.
4 – Still further down the page is site features, again be careful here as campsites can start disappearing, just set the bare minimum.
5 – An example of us setting our site features to dog-friendly
Lastly click the button Show results, you should be back at the Explore screen.
Icon Meanings
WikiCamps icons table
Selecting campsites
When in the Explore screen, it works the same as Google maps, use your fingers to pinch and zoom, move the map around, etc, when you are ready, click on an icon to get more information about that campsite.
Below images rotate from 1 to 7.
Selecting campsites for a trip
1 – Select campsite
2 – This screen is all the information about the campsite, reviews, cost, contact info, location.
3 – Site features – more information
4 – The reviews themselves, what other people have observed.
5 – Trip selector, what trip you want this campsite to go into
6 – Where in your trip do you want this to go
7 – The options available in the plan section of WikiCamps.
TIPS:
Always read the reviews, from here you can learn the current condition of the park, facilities, and also how safe it is. Not all caravan parks are created equal.
After reading some reviews we have given some parks a miss, due to safety concerns or condition of the park.
Summary
This is just a brief introduction to WikiCamps. From here you can –
Save filters to re use later
Off-line content
Find other facilities
Average fuel consumption, distance between camps etc
Thanks for reading Trip Planning – WikiCamps for Beginners. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
When you’re on the road in a van, caravan, or motorhome, staying topped up on fresh water and having somewhere to dump waste is essential when trying to do free camping. Knowing where these points are ahead of time allows you to plan accordingly.
That’s where WikiCamps comes in. More than just a campsite finder, it’s an excellent app for locating dump points, potable water, and other essential services across Australia.
WikiCamps
Below is how I use WikiCamps to find dump points for the toilet waste and water for the caravan tanks. The most important thing to do here is to set the filters correctly.
Using the Filter Tool Tap the filter icon, (round icon top right), next to the search bar (image 1). This is where WikiCamps becomes powerful. I only select the following options in the site type (image 3) panel:
Dump Points
Potable Water
Fee Category (image 2) is Show all
Site features (image 4) are not used, so clear everything from here.
Tip: We usually have site features set to Allow dogs. This makes all the dump point and water points disappear, other option may have similar results – clear them all.
Region (5): Show All, and Exclude sites that are Permanently closed.
Just tick the boxes for what you need, then hit Apply Filters. The map will refresh and only show locations that match.
In the Explore screen just pinch and zoom into the areas that you are interested in.
Below screen shots rotate from 1 to 5 so wait till the screen shot you want comes around again.
Setting up water and Dump point filter in WikiCamps
Check User Reviews Before heading to a location, tap the pin and read what others have said. Check for:
Water pressure
If it’s genuinely potable (sometimes taps aren’t)
Accessibility for larger vehicles
Opening hours or locked gates
Is the water free? Some are metered.
Condition of the place, especially Dump Points, sometimes the conditions of these places can be bad.
Have a short hose and tap fitting handy. At some dump points these items are missing, also hand sanitiser for when you have finished or use rubber gloves.
Caravan toilet cassette, with short dump pint hose, and sanitiser
Bore Water
Bore water is something every caravaner should know about because it’s common around Australia, but not always safe or practical to use.
Bore water is groundwater pumped from underground aquifers, and while it’s often available at remote free campgrounds or remote fuel stops, it’s not always safe or pleasant to drink, so –
Check signage first. If it doesn’t say “potable,” assume it’s not safe for drinking.
It may be fine for washing or flushing, but even then, bore water can be high in minerals or salty, which can affect your plumbing over time, think hot water tank, water pump etc.
Taste can vary, some bore water smells like sulphur or tastes metallic.
Use a inline filter if you plan to fill your tank from a bore water source, and always read recent WikiCamps reviews to see what others say.
Inline water filter
Better than nothing? Bore water can be handy at a pinch, but treat it with caution, and if in doubt always use bought bottled water for drinking and cooking.
Add to Your Trip Planner Found a suitable dump point or water tap? Add it to your trip planner so you can build your route around key stops. It helps avoid running dry, or full.
Tips:
Download maps offline before heading into remote areas.
Double-check water labels — not all taps listed as potable are trustworthy; reviews help.
In the outback, you can end up with bore water, an inline filter is recommended, some people wont drink it.
Be a good Wiki-camper: Leave a review after using a site. That info helps others and keeps the app up to date.
Save your filter for future use in WikiCamps.
Thanks for reading Finding Dump Points and Water with WikiCamps. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
A guide to off-road adventures and scenic drives in Queensland’s Rainbow Beach.
If you’re travelling Australia with a 4WD and a sense of adventure, Cooloola Recreation Area is a stretch of coast worth slowing down for. Just south of Rainbow Beach, this part of the Great Sandy National Park offers more than soft sand and sea spray, it’s a chance to explore at your own pace. From the sweeping views atop Carlo Sand Blow and Double Island Point to the peaceful beach drives and bush tracks, Rainbow Beach blends wild beauty with a sense of freedom that seasoned travellers will appreciate. Whether you’re set up for a day trip or planning a longer stay, it’s a place that stays with you long after the sand washes off.
If you are staying in Rainbow Beach area with your fury friend, we can recommend Big4 Breeze Holiday Park, or if you want to be closer to nature, and the beach itself, then one of the many Inskip Point campsites maybe for you.
A 4WD capable vehicle with decent ground clarence.
Water & food.
NO Dogs (domestic animals)
Check for the latest conditions of the track at Information centre, or the parks website
Map showing route
Map showing direction of travel
Our Adventure
We started our day at 8am, dropping Shadow off at a doggy day care place not too far from our campground, then onto the main road towards the entrance to Cooloola Recreation Area.
Turning left onto Freshwater Road, then into Bymien Day use area, had a look around, there are some short walking tracks around, and toilets, flushing as well, and in good condition.
From here it was on to Freshwater Day use area. Along the way the track changed to soft sand, it was along here that we dropped the tyre pressures, there are plenty of passing bays to pull into to stay out of the way.
Here is a list of what we set our vehicle to when going on sand
Tyres to 15 psi
4WD high
Sand Mode
Traction control off
Transmission – Manual mode for the soft stuff
While the sand can be soft in places, we had no problems, the track is well defined, and even though we went in the middle of the week, there are plenty of people around.
We arrived at Freshwater Campground, and wow, what an excellent setup here. Flushing toilets, coin operated hot showers, level campsites, we thought this campground would be an excellent place to stay for a few days with pretty decent facilities, even a dump point a bit further down the track. The day use area was the same, flushing toilets, sheltered BBQ areas, a really good setup considering how remote this place is.
We did see a pop top caravan at the campground, not sure I would be game to take one, but there you go.
NOTE: Low tide for us was 1.45pm, we went on the beach at about 11am (a bit early), with the intention of being off by 3.45pm at the latest.
From here we headed up to Double Island Point to park up and walk to the lighthouse. The walk was about 2Km return, not too arduous, you are walking uphill to get there. I suggest taking water as there is next to no shade on the way and at the lighthouse itself. When we got back it was time to have a swim, and a bite to eat.
It was a popular place to get in the water as there was a few people about. The surf was a bit choppy, you do get pushed around a bit. The water was cool and refreshing.
From here we took the Leisha Track to Rainbow Beach South, wow, this is even better than the other side, it seemed more sheltered, less wind and swell, generally the water was calm and the beach was shallow going out some way so if you just wanted to do wadding, then this is the place, also would be good for small children.
From here, it was back to Rainbow Beach to beat the tide. You must get around Mudlo Rocks before high tide.
NOTE: You cannot get around Mudlo Rocks at high tide, you must know the tides and watch your time.
We did this on another day, it is very close to Rainbow Beach. A short easy walk, then from the lookout you can walk on the Sandblow itself, watch out it’s windy here, and the sand is soft.
NOTE: Watch out for Google Maps, it may take you to the wrong place! The map below will take you to the carpark for the walk.
Thanks for reading Cooloola 4WD Tracks from Rainbow Beach and Carlo Sandblow. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
This is an excellent dog-friendly park in the Rainbow Beach area. The park is large, with sites to suit any user from tents to big rigs.
Rainbow Beach is nicely placed as a base for fishing, boating, beach driving, and close to the Great Sandy National Park and K`Gari (Fraser) Island. at just over 3 hours north of Brisbane you will quickly see why this place is popular.
Big4 Breeze Holiday Park – campsites with concrete pad
Our Experience
We spent 2 weeks here, during that time we thought the caravan park was well run, the staff were helpful with the amenities block being cleaned daily and was in good condition.
The caravan park can get very busy, we arrived just before the end of school holidays, the place was packed, and somewhat noisy with parties etc, also a lot of boats around, some very nice ones at that.
After that weekend, the place quietened down a bit.
A bonus for the boaties amongst us is that there is a boat ramp right next door, saw a few people fishing there as well, not sure what they caught.
There is accommodation options ranging from cabins to un-powered grass sites. If you are a Big4 member, you can get some discounts, it depends on the time of year and how long you are staying as to what you will be paying.
This powered campground, as far as I know is the only dog friendly one around, unless you are prepared to do bush camping at Inskip Point, then this park is your only option.
WARNING: The Midge’s can be next level here, while we have been to worst places, this isn’t too far behind.
Rainbow Beach has all the basics, a small grocery store, pubs, bakery, Information centre, gift shops, Fish & Chips, fuel, while there a no big name stores here, there are plenty of small operators providing most things that you would need.
Rainbow Beach is a popular holiday spot for Brisbane families, and if you give this place a chance, I am sure it will be one of your favourite spots too.
Thanks for reading Big4 Breeze Holiday Park – Review. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
Choosing the right tyres — and running them at the right pressures is one of the most important parts of safe and comfortable towing. Tyres aren’t just “black round things”, their construction, load rating, and inflation determine how well they carry the load of your car & caravan, cope with rough roads, and resist punctures.
In this article, we’ll look at tyre markings, construction types, and practical rules for setting the right pressures and purchasing the right tyres, with a focus on caravan use.
Understanding Tyre Markings
Below is a list of what all the markings on my tyre mean. As a end user some of it is important, some of the markings are for manufactures and supplier networks. I also list some other markings you may see.
Have a good look at the photos, click on each one to see the markings clearly. The parts circled in red are the important bits for this article.
H = 210 km/h max, Most modern passenger tyres in AU
V = 240 km/h max, Performance sedans & sports cars
10PR / Load Range E = Strong casing, 10-ply rated equivalent. Heavy duty, off-road caravans, 4WD.
Other markings you may see
6PR / Load Range C = light duty (small vans, trailers)
8PR / Load Range D = medium duty (vans, lighter caravans)
12PR / Load Range F = extra heavy duty (small trucks)
14–16PR / Load Range G–H = heavy trucks, buses
The tyre load range and max tyre pressure are related because heavy duty tyres are expected to carry heavy loads.
Tyre load range and tyre pressures
At 550 kPa (80 psi) Cold The maximum load ratings are only valid if the tyre is inflated to 550 kPa = 80 psi, measured when the tyre is cold (before driving heats it up).
Construction note at the bottomSidewall: Polyester 2Tread: Polyester 2 + Steel 2 + Nylon 1 This describes the internal ply materials. Strong polyester carcass with steel belts and a nylon overlay for reinforcement.
E4 0041459 This is an ECE type approval mark (European safety certification). “E4” = the Netherlands was the testing authority. The number is the approval code for this specific tyre model.
OW: 11.50 Refers to the measuring rim width (11.5 inches) used when determining the tyre’s size specifications.
OD: 33 tyre’s overall outside diameter 33 inches.
DOT Department of Transportation certification (U.S. standard, used globally to indicate compliance).
1FB Plant code — identifies the factory where the tyre was manufactured.
BWP A0 Internal manufacturer and tyre line codes — tells Yokohama exactly which design/specification this tyre belongs to.
1625 Date code — week 16 of 2025. That means this tyre was manufactured in April 2025.
What Tyre do I need?
The load rating is the main thing to watch out for, followed by the construction type. The tyre must match the rims you have size wise.
Combined Rig
Typical Combined Setup
Recommended Tyre
Why
Light Touring Rig
Small SUV (GVM < 2.8T) + Caravan ≤ 2.4T ATM
8PR (Load Range D)
Adequate strength for lighter rigs, comfortable ride, cost effective
Touring Rig
Medium/Heavy SUV or dual-cab ute (GVM 2.8–3.5T) + Caravan 2.5–3.0T+ ATM
10PR (Load Range E)
Strong sidewalls, handles heavier loads, safer on gravel
Outback Touring Rig
Any tow vehicle + caravan/camper used on corrugations/remote tracks
10PR (Load Range E)
Extra puncture resistance and durability, even if the load is lighter
Necessary for very heavy combinations, truck-level durability
What is Load Index?
You may come across this term, basically it is a percentage of how close to the maximum load the tyre is.
The load rating of the tyre must meet or exceed the vehicle’s Gross Trailer Mass (GTM). The GTM is the total weight of your caravan when hitched.
Not sure what GTM, ATM, GVM, blah blah blah means? Have a look at this article Towing Terms Made Simple
Actual Load ÷ Max Load x 100 = Load Index
Example
e.g 1400 Kg ÷ 1650 Kg x 100 = 84%
Load %
Meaning
Risk Level
≤ 85%
Ideal — long tyre life, lower heat
Safe
86–90%
Typical for loaded caravans, single axle
Acceptable
91–100%
Near max — monitor heat & pressure carefully
High risk if prolonged
Most manufacturers recommend not going over 90% , you want some safety margin allowing for occasional extra loading on one side due to shifting loads.
Tyre Life: Wear vs Age
Car tyres: Typically wear out at around 60,000 km in 3–5 years.
Caravan tyres: Rarely wear out. Instead, they “age out” after 5–7 years due to UV, ozone, and static load.
Signs of ageing include:
Sidewall cracks (“weather checking”).
Tread surface cracking.
Bulges, blisters, or deformation.
Rubber turning grey and chalky.
Flat spots
Rubber going hard, will look almost polished. These tyres are bad on wet roads, poor grip.
Rule of thumb: Replace caravan tyres by 6 – 7 years maximum, even if the tread looks new. This will be especially true if considering outback, off-road driving, and the Load Index is above 85%.
This is a general recommendation from most manufactures, there is no hard and fast rule here as every tyre will be used in different conditions, it is up to you to use your judgement, or seek professional advice from a tyre shop, caravan repair shop.
Now here is some more maths. For caravans, without getting everything weighed, use the GTM figure, the reality is you won’t be far from this.
For better accuracy, you will need to get yourself weighed at a weigh bridge, or get a mobile weigh guy to help.
This is for highway use.
Our Caravan specs as an example:
GTM = 2500 Kg (from the compliance plate)
Max tyre load from tyre= 125 ( 1650 Kg, form load table above)
Max tyre pressure 80psi (from the tyre)
single axle (2 wheels)
Formulae
GTM (Kg) ÷ 2 (wheels) = Load per Tyre in Kg
e.g 2500 Kg ÷ 2 = 1250Kg
Actual load ÷ Max Load X max pressure = recommended tyre psi
e.g 1250 ÷ 1650 x 80 = 60 psi (cold)
This is a good suggested starting point for me with these tyres, for single axle off-road caravans I would think most people will be about the same.
Example – Tandem Caravan specs
Same thing, except with 4 wheels.
GTM: 3200 kg (from the compliance plate)
Max tyre load from tyre= 125 (1650 Kg, from load table above)
Max tyre pressure 80 psi (from the tyre)
Twin axle (4 wheels)
3200 kg ÷ 4 wheels = 800 Kg
800 Kg ÷ 1650 Kg X 80 psi = 39 psi
For a caravan with these specs, 39 psi cold would be a good starting place.
Don’t have a calculator handy, try the calculator below to see what your tyre pressures should be and the Load Index ratio.
Tyre Pressure Calculator
Load per tyre: — kg
Recommended cold tyre pressure: — psi
Load Index Ratio: — %
The 4–8 PSI Rule
A practical way to check pressures on the road:
After driving an hour, hot pressures should have risen by 4–8 psi.
More than 10 psi → underinflated, more air needed in tyre.
Less than 4 psi → overinflated, remove air from tyre.
This works well for caravans because loads change (water tanks full/empty, gear added), also true for heavy Utes, large SUV's, specifically the rear tyres.
Also, bear in mind when starting with high tyre pressures each 1 psi represents a smaller % change, so the total rise might be 6–8 psi instead of the traditional 4–6 psi, which would be more applicable to normal tyre pressures for a car, or a tandem caravan.
Gravel Roads: The 30 PSI Rule
Many experienced travellers deflate to ~28–32 psi cold on corrugated gravel roads.
Why: Softer tyres cushion the ride, protect suspension, and reduce vibration damage.
Caveat: Keep speeds down (60–80 km/h). Low pressures at highway speed = overheating and tyre failure risk.
This approach is much safer than the old “go faster and skim over the corrugations” trick. Just because the tow vehicle feels smoother at 90 km/h doesn’t mean the caravan is. In fact, the van’s suspension and chassis may be copping a flogging at that speed.
Personally, I would be reluctant to go any lower as you will risk the tyre getting pinched by a large rock. Punctures/blowouts are not fun.
Sand Driving
Sand driving/towing, it is the same for your caravan as it is for your car, approximately 18 psi for the car, and 20 psi for the caravan. This is to increase the foot print of each tyre giving you more traction, and also to stop the tyres digging into the sand. Speed to be kept way down i.e about 30 - 40 Kph.
If you come across hard/firm sand, then for a short distance you can go a bit faster, caution will be needed as the tyres can overheat quickly.
Choosing the Right Tyre Brand
When it comes to caravan tyres, it’s worth sticking with reputable, well-established brands — especially for heavy or long-distance touring. While budget tyres might look tempting, quality construction, heat resistance, and consistent load testing make a big difference to safety and reliability.
This is especially important if considering gravel, corrugated off-road driving, think Oodnadatta, Gibb river rd, etc.
Major, Proven Brands in Australia
These manufacturers have strong reputations for durability and wide national support:
Michelin / BF Goodrich – premium build, excellent heat resistance, and good off-road performance.
Bridgestone / Firestone – long-running Australian presence, reliable dealer network.
Goodyear / Dunlop – solid mix of on-road comfort and load handling.
Toyo / Yokohama / Falken – quality Japanese brands with a good balance of cost and strength.
Maxxis / Hankook – mid-priced but respected for their LT and A/T ranges (popular with caravanners).
Cooper / Mickey Thompson – very popular in the off-road touring scene for strong casings and long tread life.
Practical Tips
Always check the “LT” (Light Truck) marking for heavy caravans and tow vehicles.
Confirm that the load index and pressure rating match or exceed your caravan’s ATM. For purchasing tyres for you caravan, we use ATM figures as this is the theoretical maximum loading.
Choose a brand with a national service network — handy for warranty and replacements when you’re thousands of kilometres from home.
Avoid “no-name imports” — their load and speed ratings are often optimistic or inconsistent.
Good Rule of Thumb
If the tyre brand is available nationwide through major outlets (Bob Jane, Bridgestone, Tyrepower, Beaurepaires, etc.), it’s likely been tested for Australian conditions.
Conclusion
For caravanners, tyres are the most critical safety component.
Learn to read the sidewall markings.
Understand that caravan tyres age out before they wear out.
Use the formula and the 4–8 psi rule to set correct pressures.
On gravel, corrugated tracks, air down to 30 psi and slow down — protect your tyres, suspension, and caravan.
Getting tyre pressures and construction right is the difference between a safe, smooth trip and a roadside headache.
Disclaimer:
This article is meant as guidance only. If you have any questions, or are unsure what your tyre pressures should be, your caravan manufacturer or local dealership will be able to advise you fully. If you have any doubts about the suitability or the condition of your caravan’s tyres please consult a tyre specialist. Remember any tyre defects that you can be prosecuted for on your towing vehicle, also apply to your caravan tyres when towing your caravan on public roads.
Thanks for reading Caravan & Car Tyres - Construction and Pressures Explained. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
Staying connected on the road is for some of us no longer a luxury, it’s how we check the weather, keep in touch with family, stream a movie, or even work from the caravan. For us grey nomads travelling Australia, Starlink has become the go-to option when mobile coverage falls short.
This article aims to explain which plan / strategy is right for you.
How much Data do you use?
This is the first question to ask yourself.
Below is a quick table of roughly how much each activity per user of data could be used.
The biggest data usage is video, by a long way.
Activity
Data Per Hour
50 GB Covers
108 GB Covers
Web browsing / email
~150 MB
~330 hrs
~720 hrs
Video call (HD Zoom/Teams)
~1 GB
~50 hrs
~108 hrs
Music streaming (Spotify, normal)
~70 MB
~715 hrs
~1,540 hrs
YouTube (HD 1080p)
~1.5 GB
~33 hrs
~72 hrs
Netflix (HD 1080p)
~3 GB
~16 hrs
~36 hrs
Netflix (Ultra HD 4K)
~7 GB
~7 hrs
~15 hrs
Starlink Roaming Options
1. Standby Mode $8.50/month
Not a “real plan,” this is what happens when you pause your plan (50GB, or unlimited)
Provides very limited connectivity 0.5Mbps, just enough for messaging, email, weather checks, and reactivating your service.
If you are happy with this very limited access, then you could just stay on this paused plan.
2. 50 GB Plan $80/month
Designed for light to moderate use.
Great for browsing, emails, video calls, some YouTube, and the occasional Netflix session.
Can be extended with top-ups to ~108 GB before it costs more than the Unlimited plan.
Suits couples who are careful with streaming and willing to manage data use.
3. Unlimited Plan$195/month
Higher monthly cost, but you never have to count gigabytes.
Perfect for full-timers who stream TV nightly, work from the van, or don’t want to track usage.
The “hassle-free” option — especially when travelling through areas with patchy mobile coverage.
If you are a family with kids who are on their devices all the time, then this probably what you will need.
Streaming apps on TV
One thing to watch out for: some smart TV apps don’t let you choose resolution. They often default to HD or even 4K if your subscription and network speed allows it, Starlink speed means it is an option that will be allowed.
That means:
Watching the same Netflix show on your phone might use 0.7 GB/hr (SD).
The TV app could chew through 3–7 GB/hr for the exact same program (4K).
It’s not the screen size itself, but the streaming quality chosen automatically by the app.
Tips:
Check if your account settings allow you to set playback quality (e.g. Netflix does, needs to be done for each profile).
Use an external streaming stick (Fire Stick, Chromecast, Apple TV) — these often give you more control.
Consider pre-downloading shows on your phone/tablet over free Wi-Fi, then casting them later.
Netflix playback options
Changing plans FAQ’s
The Billing Cycle
Starts on the anniversary of first activation of your account
Is paid in advance
When re-activating our account, you pay the pro-rata amount of what is left in your current billing cycle. i.e if re-activating on the 15th, and your billing cycle is 20th of the month, then you will get billed $195/30 X 5 = $32.50 (Roam Unlimited, assuming 30 days in the current month)
When activating your account mid-month, you still get the full 50GB, it is not pro-rata.(50GB Plan)
Can I upgrade my plan mid-month?
Yes. If you go from the 50 GB plan to Unlimited, the change takes effect immediately.
You’ll be billed pro-rata for the remainder of your billing cycle.
Your plan will automatically renew as Unlimited until you change plans again (or pause).
Can I downgrade my plan mid-month?
Not really, you stay on your current plan until the next billing cycle begins.
Starlink does not refund the unused portion of the higher-cost plan.
What happens when I hit 50 GB?(50GB Plan)
You don’t get charged automatically.
Your connection is throttled until you either:
Wait for the next billing cycle, or
opt-in to buy extra GB.
Pausing(Standby mode)
This is now called Standby mode
You can pause at any time in your current month, the change wont take place until the end of your current billing cycle.
If you don’t like (need) the Standby-Mode, then you can cancel the service, re-activate when you want it back again. This is cancelling your service, NOT closing your account.
Which Plan should you use?
It all comes down to how much data you think you will use. The best gauge is to look at you internet usage history , most if not all ISP provide in your account page internet usage/month table, or graph, this should be a good guide to what you will use on the road.
Summary
If you are a heavy user of the internet, like watching videos, then the Unlimited plan will be for you (that’s us).
If you are not much of an internet user, don’t watch many videos, then possible the 50GB plan will work for you.
Below is a flow diagram for you to try out.
Flow diagram for using the 50GB plan
If you only want very basic internet, then maybe Standby-mode may work.
Summary
Starlink is a game changer. You are pretty much guaranteed full speed (NBN speed) access of the internet anywhere you can get a unobstructed view of the sky. It makes for a good backup to cellular networks, or even as your primary internet access while on the road.
Thanks for reading Starlink for Caravaners – Which Plan Is Right for You?. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
Today I will describe how we use, plan, and access the internet while on the road full time. We have been on the road for nearly 1 year, and have picked up a few tips and tricks along the way.
There are a lot of options, and a lot of money that can be spent chasing the internet, our system is pretty good for our needs, and we have access to the internet nearly everywhere we go.
Expectations
The first question to ask yourself, is How important is it to have internet access?
Not Important / don’t care if I have it or not.
I can survive a few days without it.
Important, I want it, need it.
Essential, life is not worth living without it, I need it for work.
For us, we’re in the last 2 categories, internet is pretty dam important, and if it’s not there, and working properly we’re not happy campers, especially if we are somewhere for more than a day or two.
We need our Youtube, Netflix news etc in the evening, and quite often if the TV signal is poor, we rely on streaming services to watch the news and our favourite programs.
What we Use & How
Mobile phones & tablet, tv
Netgear LM1200 4G modem (Telstra sim) – main internet
Starlink – backup internet
Unifi-Express router – the brains of the setup, it does vlans, guest network, IDS, …..
The phones and tablet, can obviously get their own internet, but for the van everything goes through our router, Unifi express. So whether we use the Netgear or Starlink, everything in the van just uses the same network.
We primally use the Netgear 4G modem. The sim card is part of our plan, which has data sharing with our phones, all up we have an allowance of 225GB/month. We use Starlink as backup, we look ahead at how remote we are going, and then think about activating it if needed.
NOTE: Until recently, to un-pause Starlink you needed a working internet connection, recently Starlink has made a change that when you pause Starlink, your account goes into backup mode (limited internet access) so the process of un-pausing your account should be easier.
Cellphone Tower Quality & Capacity
This is the forward thinking part. We look ahead, if we’re going to be remote, or close to small towns, i.e towns with a population less than 1K, then I will look at the app on the phone to see what cellphone towers are about, their capacity, also how far away we will be from the tower.
The above screenshot is from a nifty app called Aus Phone Towers.
Looking at these pics, you can tell straight away that the Optus tower has a lot more capacity than the Telstra tower, also bear in mind the 3G network has been closed down. Why this app stills shows them I have no idea.
Below is a break down of the important bits – (Telstra example)
4G → The technology (LTE).
778 MHz → This is the frequency band the tower is using. In the Telstra’s network, that’s Band 28 (often written as 700/778 MHz). It’s the “long range” band, great for regional coverage because lower frequencies travel further and penetrate walls better.
20 MHz bandwidth → How wide the channel is. Think of it like the width of a lane on the highway: the wider it is, the more cars (data) can travel at once.
Capacity –395 Mbps → The theoretical maximum download speed the tower can deliver on that channel. Real-world is always lower (often 20–80 Mbps depending on load, distance, and signal).
4×4 MIMO → Multiple Input, Multiple Output. The tower uses 4 antennas each way to send/receive data in parallel.
LTE – FD (Frequency Division duplex) → The uplink and downlink use separate frequency ranges. That’s why you can upload and download at the same time smoothly. Contrast with TDD (Time Division duplex), where up and down share the same channel in time slots.
Also, looking at the description, the Telstra Tower Height is 19m, while the Optus is 49m. Why this is important is line of sight, higher is better.
So looking at this, I am not hopeful of getting a good internet experience in Hopetoun with Telstra, I will probably be using Starlink for our stay there.
I could also in this situation get a Optus sim card and use that.
Starlink
Our Starlink kit is the older one V2, which I have converted to 12v. We do not use the router that came with it.
We are also on the unlimited roaming plan, we pause it when not in use.
It is expensive at $195/month, and you have to activate it per month.
The only requirement here is that you have a clear line of sight of the sky, so normally it’s just trees that can cause problems, also we have noticed that our dish prefers a southerly direction when it is adjusting itself.
With this setup, in the past year, there may have been only 1 or 2 days where we have had no or poor internet. Again, because there have been too many trees in the way.
Summary
Between Telstra & Starlink, you will get internet nearly everywhere. Even at campsites with a lot of trees, so long as you can position yourself with a clear line of sight to the southerly sky, then you will be ok. The few times we have been caught out is because we did not position ourselves correctly due to other factors.
Thanks for reading Internet on the road – Tips. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
When touring Australia in a caravan, one silent risk often overlooked is low clearance bridges—anything below about 3.2 m can spell disaster. Google Maps won’t warn you about these hazards, and with caravans easily reaching heights of 3.1 m or more, you could be directed straight into trouble.
During our trip where we had to travel through Bairnsdale, VIC, to get to Lake King Waterfront Park we nearly had our caravan damaged. A bridge clearly marked with a 3.2 m height limit loomed ahead—and with our caravan at 3.1 m, we missed disaster by mere centimetres.
So looking back, should we have known what the height of our caravan was? The answer is yes, we did ask at hand over time, but with the passing of time we weren’t sure any more. What we did know was that our van looked awfully close to 3.2 Meters, and the first thing we were going to loose was the A/C unit on the roof.
Tip: put a sticker on the top right of your windscreen with the height of your caravan and car, especially if you have a roof rack and other items stored on top.
Statistics on Caravan Heights
caravans over 3.0 meters high:
On-road caravans: 17.32%
Off-road caravans: 27.88%
As you can see there is a fair amount of caravans which are over 3.0 meters, so when you see a warning for bridge height, pay attention, especially if towing an off-road caravan.
Dangers of Low Clarence Bridges
Zero room for error: Without extra space for antennas or roof fixtures like A/C, a 3.1 m caravan could go past the margin under a 3.2 m bridge.
Limited advance warnings: Local signage exists, but no Google maps or general mapping apps alert you.
High-stakes consequences: Caravans can get ripped apart, cause traffic jams, or even injure people—like the bus strike under Montague Street Bridge in Melbourne, where significant damage and injuries occurred.
Below is a link to video showing what can go wrong when a low clearance bridge is taken on by a caravan. You may need to reload the page to see the video again.
Low Clarence bridges locations
I have attempted to mark on a map where these bridges are. As you can see the vast majority are in the big cities.
NOTE: This is not an exhaustive / complete list of all low clearance bridges in Australia. There probably are others!!
Final Thoughts for Grey Nomads or not so Grey Nomads on the road
Low-clearance bridges present real threats to caravan travelers. With no awareness on Google Maps and limited warning systems, preparation is key. Measure your full load, use RV or trucking apps, stay alert to signage and have alternative routes ready.
An app I have heard other people talk about is Sygic Truck app , now this is an app that can go on your phone, how good it is I am not sure as I have never used it, but it does have the ability to input your setup length and height.
Our encounter near Bairnsdale proved how narrow margins can be – if conditions hadn’t been perfect, we’d have to do a fifty point u-turn, blocking the road completely in the process. Don’t let low bridges derail your Aussie adventure. Plan smart, stay informed, and your caravan will stay clear—literally.
Thanks for reading The Peril of Low Clarence Bridges for Caravans. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
This campground, while basic in features, was peaceful, safe and with plenty of trees around, shady. We would definitely stay here again when passing through.
Website: N/A
Fee Category: Free
Booking: No
Powered Sites: No
Dog Friendly: Yes
Amenities: No
Dump point: No, in town
Pool: No
Fire pits: Yes
Telstra: Yes
Starlink: Trees may be a problem
Generator: Yes
A sandy beach next to the river providing easy access to the water for a swim
Our Experience
This is quite a large campground, with lots of places to set yourself up away from other campers. You can also swim in the river, with easy access just a short walk away.
The road goes down into the campground, you veer left at the fork to go closer to the river, or go right, and be further away from the river. The main difference will be the trees, if wanting shade, stay by the river, on the other hand if you want to use Starlink, better off further away form the river, less trees. We had no problems with Telstra reception here.
The ground is relatively level, though if it has been raining it could get very slippery, so caution will be needed.
The campground felt safe, and was peaceful when we where there. Plenty of campers around and having camp fires is a bonus.
There is a sign about 1080 poison, being used in the area, not at the campground, but these things can be carried by birds etc, so some caution needed for your fur babies.
Boulia
Boulia is a tiny settlement on the edge of the desert. It is the administrative centre for the Boulia Shire Council which covers an area of 61,176 sq. km “of rugged landscape, open Mitchell grass downs and channel country which is noted for being one of the best Australian natural wool/beef producing country” as the Mayor of Boulia puts it. This is a true outback experience.
Boulia town itself is small, but it is home to the famous Min Min lights, there is the excellent Min Min encounter show , which we thought was very well done. There is also the Heritage Center to have a look at as well.
Basic supplies are available here, just watch out for the hours, the grocery store closes at midday on a Sunday. Caught us out.
Below is a table for the average weather conditions in the area, take note that during the summer months temps are high and so is the potential for rain.
Weather averages for Boulia
Month
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
June
July
Aug
Sept
Oct
Nov
Dec
Temp Max C
38.5
37.5
35.5
31.6
26.7
23.3
22.9
25.8
30.2
34.3
37.0
38.6
Temp Min C
24.7
24.1
21.9
17.3
12.6
9.1
7.8
9.6
13.7
18.0
21.5
23.5
Rain Avg (mm)
48.0
48.3
36.8
12.8
12.6
10.5
9.6
6.3
7.8
14.0
21.2
30.5
This table will show the average temp min/max rainfall per month
Thanks for reading Burke River Boulia – Free Campground. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
When you’re towing a caravan across Australia’s vast and varied roads, safety and reliability are everything. One often overlooked factor that can make or break your trip is wheel alignment. A caravan that’s even slightly out of alignment can cause uneven tyre wear, poor handling, increased fuel consumption, and, in the worst cases, dangerous sway on the highway.
Why Wheel Alignment Matters
Tyre life: Misaligned wheels chew through rubber much faster, leading to costly replacements.
Fuel efficiency: More drag equals higher fuel consumption — a hidden cost of misalignment.
Safety: Poor alignment can reduce stability, especially at highway speeds or on rough outback roads.
Stress reduction: A van that tows smoothly takes stress off the tow vehicle, driver, and passengers.
Monitoring Alignment on the Road
Australia’s roads can be unforgiving, potholes, corrugations, and long stretches of uneven bitumen can all knock your caravan’s wheels out of alignment mid-trip. That’s why it’s important to keep an eye on things as you travel.
A simple DIY method I use on my own caravan is marking the alignment adjusters with a permanent marker. This way, I can visually check at a glance if anything has shifted while I’m on the road. It only takes a second during a fuel stop or at a campsite, and it gives you peace of mind.
This method only works if you know the wheel alignment is correct to begin with. So, the best thing to do, before going on any trip, is to load the caravan up and get it wheel aligned professionally.
I have been advised that when you get a new caravan, the initial wheel alignment (if any) would be done on an empty caravan, as the caravan gets loaded up, just like your car the alignment changes.
So if you have just got a new van, or second hand one, best to get a wheel alignment done by someone who knows what they are doing.
Other quick checks:
Look for uneven tyre wear when you stop.
Pay attention to changes in towing feel (does the caravan start pulling to one side?).
Check wheel temperatures after long hauls — one wheel running hotter can be a sign of trouble.
A Habit Worth Keeping
This is something I did from the beginning, when we first got the caravan, I marked the adjusters, and every now and again I poked my head underneath to have a look, they just stayed there, nothing moving. All good.
It was not until we started the Oodnadatta track that the adjusters would start moving, every night, at camp I would check, and get the spanners out and put them back to where they should be.
By the time we got to Alice Springs, I was adjusting them back nearly every night. Even when we left the dirt roads and back on the tar seal, they would still move out of adjustment. It was not until I got a wheel alignment done at Alice Springs that ever since then everything has been ok.
We even went from Alice Springs to Boulia over the Plenty/Donohue Hwy, no problems.
I am convinced, had I not marked the adjusters, I would have not known about the wheel alignment moving, and I would have probably destroyed 2 tyres, or worse got stuck somewhere with a blowout.
Thanks for reading Caravan Wheel Alignment Checks. Shadow, the van, and the two of us will catch you at the next campsite.
If you like this type of content, please consider signing up for our newsletter.
