Author: Vincent

October 29, 2025

Caravan & Car Tyres – Construction and Pressures Explained

Choosing the right tyres — and running them at the right pressures is one of the most important parts of safe and comfortable towing. Tyres aren’t just “black round things”, their construction, load rating, and inflation determine how well they carry the load of your car & caravan, cope with rough roads, and resist punctures.

In this article, we’ll look at tyre markings, construction types, and practical rules for setting the right pressures and purchasing the right tyres, with a focus on caravan use.

Understanding Tyre Markings

Below is a list of what all the markings on my tyre mean. As a end user some of it is important, some of the markings are for manufactures and supplier networks. I also list some other markings you may see.

Have a good look at the photos, click on each one to see the markings clearly. The parts circled in red are the important bits for this article.

TIP: Use your phone to take a picture of the tyre markings, it will be a lot easier to read when everything is up the right way.

LT = Light Truck construction (built for heavy loads).
- Some other markings you may see
  - Blank or P = Passenger
  - C = Commercial
  - T = Temporary
285 = Tyre width in mm.
65 = Aspect ratio (sidewall height = 65% of width).
R18 = Radial construction, fits 18” rim.
125/122 = Load index (1650 kg single / 1500 kg dual), You get the Kg rating from the table below.

For most, if not all caravans it is the first number (125) that is used

Q = Speed rating 160 km/h max, LT tyres, off-road & caravan tyres
- Other Markings you may see
  - R = 170 km/h max, Some LT/van tyres
  - S = 180 km/h max, Older passenger or SUV tyres
  - T = 190 km/h max, Family cars, SUVs
  - H = 210 km/h max, Most modern passenger tyres in AU
  - V = 240 km/h max, Performance sedans & sports cars
10PR / Load Range E = Strong casing, 10-ply rated equivalent. Heavy duty, off-road caravans, 4WD.
- Other markings you may see
  - 6PR / Load Range C = light duty (small vans, trailers)
  - 8PR / Load Range D = medium duty (vans, lighter caravans)
  - 12PR / Load Range F = extra heavy duty (small trucks)
  - 14–16PR / Load Range G–H = heavy trucks, buses

The tyre load range and max tyre pressure are related because heavy duty tyres are expected to carry heavy loads.

At 550 kPa (80 psi) Cold The maximum load ratings are only valid if the tyre is inflated to 550 kPa = 80 psi, measured when the tyre is cold (before driving heats it up).
Construction note at the bottom Sidewall: Polyester 2 Tread: Polyester 2 + Steel 2 + Nylon 1
This describes the internal ply materials. Strong polyester carcass with steel belts and a nylon overlay for reinforcement.
E4 0041459 This is an ECE type approval mark (European safety certification). “E4” = the Netherlands was the testing authority. The number is the approval code for this specific tyre model.
OW: 11.50 Refers to the measuring rim width (11.5 inches) used when determining the tyre’s size specifications.
OD: 33 tyre’s overall outside diameter 33 inches.
DOT Department of Transportation certification (U.S. standard, used globally to indicate compliance).
1FB Plant code — identifies the factory where the tyre was manufactured.
BWP A0 Internal manufacturer and tyre line codes — tells Yokohama exactly which design/specification this tyre belongs to.
1625 Date code — week 16 of 2025. That means this tyre was manufactured in April 2025.

What Tyre do I need?

The load rating is the main thing to watch out for, followed by the construction type. The tyre must match the rims you have size wise.

Combined Rig	Typical Combined Setup	Recommended Tyre	Why
Light Touring Rig	Small SUV (GVM < 2.8T) + Caravan ≤ 2.4T ATM	8PR (Load Range D)	Adequate strength for lighter rigs, comfortable ride, cost effective
Touring Rig	Medium/Heavy SUV or dual-cab ute (GVM 2.8–3.5T) + Caravan 2.5–3.0T+ ATM	10PR (Load Range E)	Strong sidewalls, handles heavier loads, safer on gravel
Outback Touring Rig	Any tow vehicle + caravan/camper used on corrugations/remote tracks	10PR (Load Range E)	Extra puncture resistance and durability, even if the load is lighter
Heavy-Duty Rig	Light truck (GVM > 3.5T) + Caravan/Gooseneck > 3.5T ATM	12PR (Load Range F) or higher	Necessary for very heavy combinations, truck-level durability

What is Load Index?

You may come across this term, basically it is a percentage of how close to the maximum load the tyre is.

The load rating of the tyre must meet or exceed the vehicle’s Gross Trailer Mass (GTM). The GTM is the total weight of your caravan when hitched.

Not sure what GTM, ATM, GVM, blah blah blah means? Have a look at this article Towing Terms Made Simple

Actual Load ÷ Max Load x 100 = Load Index

Example

e.g 1400 Kg ÷ 1650 Kg x 100 = 84%

Load %	Meaning	Risk Level
≤ 85%	Ideal — long tyre life, lower heat	Safe
86–90%	Typical for loaded caravans, single axle	Acceptable
91–100%	Near max — monitor heat & pressure carefully	High risk if prolonged

Most manufacturers recommend not going over 90% , you want some safety margin allowing for occasional extra loading on one side due to shifting loads.

Tyre Life: Wear vs Age

Car tyres: Typically wear out at around 60,000 km in 3–5 years.
Caravan tyres: Rarely wear out. Instead, they “age out” after 5–7 years due to UV, ozone, and static load.

Signs of ageing include:

Sidewall cracks (“weather checking”).
Tread surface cracking.
Bulges, blisters, or deformation.
Rubber turning grey and chalky.
Flat spots
Rubber going hard, will look almost polished. These tyres are bad on wet roads, poor grip.

Rule of thumb: Replace caravan tyres by 6 – 7 years maximum, even if the tread looks new. This will be especially true if considering outback, off-road driving, and the Load Index is above 85%.

This is a general recommendation from most manufactures, there is no hard and fast rule here as every tyre will be used in different conditions, it is up to you to use your judgement, or seek professional advice from a tyre shop, caravan repair shop.

Also keep an eye on the Wheel Alignment, get it checked and use this hack to keep an eye on it.

Setting Tyre Pressures

Now here is some more maths. For caravans, without getting everything weighed, use the GTM figure, the reality is you won’t be far from this.

For better accuracy, you will need to get yourself weighed at a weigh bridge, or get a mobile weigh guy to help.

This is for highway use.

Our Caravan specs as an example:

GTM = 2500 Kg (from the compliance plate)
Max tyre load from tyre= 125 ( 1650 Kg, form load table above)
Max tyre pressure 80psi (from the tyre)
single axle (2 wheels)

Formulae

GTM (Kg) ÷ 2 (wheels) = Load per Tyre in Kg

e.g 2500 Kg ÷ 2 = 1250Kg

Actual load ÷ Max Load X max pressure = recommended tyre psi

e.g 1250 ÷ 1650 x 80 = 60 psi (cold)

This is a good suggested starting point for me with these tyres, for single axle off-road caravans I would think most people will be about the same.

Example – Tandem Caravan specs

Same thing, except with 4 wheels.

GTM: 3200 kg (from the compliance plate)
Max tyre load from tyre= 125 (1650 Kg, from load table above)
Max tyre pressure 80 psi (from the tyre)
Twin axle (4 wheels)

3200 kg ÷ 4 wheels = 800 Kg

800 Kg ÷ 1650 Kg X 80 psi = 39 psi

For a caravan with these specs, 39 psi cold would be a good starting place.

Don’t have a calculator handy, try the calculator below to see what your tyre pressures should be and the Load Index ratio.

Tyre Pressure Calculator

Load Index (from tyre):

GTM or known weight when hitched (kg):

Axles:

Load per tyre: — kg Recommended cold tyre pressure: — psi Load Index Ratio: — %

The 4–8 PSI Rule

A practical way to check pressures on the road:

After driving an hour, hot pressures should have risen by 4–8 psi.
More than 10 psi → underinflated, more air needed in tyre.
Less than 4 psi → overinflated, remove air from tyre.

This works well for caravans because loads change (water tanks full/empty, gear added), also true for heavy Utes, large SUV's, specifically the rear tyres.

Also, bear in mind when starting with high tyre pressures each 1 psi represents a smaller % change, so the total rise might be 6–8 psi instead of the traditional 4–6 psi, which would be more applicable to normal tyre pressures for a car, or a tandem caravan.

Gravel Roads: The 30 PSI Rule

Many experienced travellers deflate to ~28–32 psi cold on corrugated gravel roads.

Why: Softer tyres cushion the ride, protect suspension, and reduce vibration damage.
Caveat: Keep speeds down (60–80 km/h). Low pressures at highway speed = overheating and tyre failure risk.

This approach is much safer than the old “go faster and skim over the corrugations” trick. Just because the tow vehicle feels smoother at 90 km/h doesn’t mean the caravan is. In fact, the van’s suspension and chassis may be copping a flogging at that speed.

Personally, I would be reluctant to go any lower as you will risk the tyre getting pinched by a large rock. Punctures/blowouts are not fun.

Sand Driving

Sand driving/towing, it is the same for your caravan as it is for your car, approximately 18 psi for the car, and 20 psi for the caravan. This is to increase the foot print of each tyre giving you more traction, and also to stop the tyres digging into the sand. Speed to be kept way down i.e about 30 - 40 Kph.

If you come across hard/firm sand, then for a short distance you can go a bit faster, caution will be needed as the tyres can overheat quickly.

Choosing the Right Tyre Brand

When it comes to caravan tyres, it’s worth sticking with reputable, well-established brands — especially for heavy or long-distance touring. While budget tyres might look tempting, quality construction, heat resistance, and consistent load testing make a big difference to safety and reliability.

This is especially important if considering gravel, corrugated off-road driving, think Oodnadatta, Gibb river rd, etc.

Major, Proven Brands in Australia

These manufacturers have strong reputations for durability and wide national support:

Michelin / BF Goodrich – premium build, excellent heat resistance, and good off-road performance.
Bridgestone / Firestone – long-running Australian presence, reliable dealer network.
Goodyear / Dunlop – solid mix of on-road comfort and load handling.
Toyo / Yokohama / Falken – quality Japanese brands with a good balance of cost and strength.
Maxxis / Hankook – mid-priced but respected for their LT and A/T ranges (popular with caravanners).
Cooper / Mickey Thompson – very popular in the off-road touring scene for strong casings and long tread life.

Practical Tips

Always check the “LT” (Light Truck) marking for heavy caravans and tow vehicles.
Confirm that the load index and pressure rating match or exceed your caravan’s ATM. For purchasing tyres for you caravan, we use ATM figures as this is the theoretical maximum loading.
Choose a brand with a national service network — handy for warranty and replacements when you’re thousands of kilometres from home.
Avoid “no-name imports” — their load and speed ratings are often optimistic or inconsistent.

Good Rule of Thumb

If the tyre brand is available nationwide through major outlets (Bob Jane, Bridgestone, Tyrepower, Beaurepaires, etc.), it’s likely been tested for Australian conditions.

Conclusion

For caravanners, tyres are the most critical safety component.

Learn to read the sidewall markings.
Understand that caravan tyres age out before they wear out.
Use the formula and the 4–8 psi rule to set correct pressures.
On gravel, corrugated tracks, air down to 30 psi and slow down — protect your tyres, suspension, and caravan.

Getting tyre pressures and construction right is the difference between a safe, smooth trip and a roadside headache.

Disclaimer:

This article is meant as guidance only. If you have any questions, or are unsure what your tyre pressures should be, your caravan manufacturer or local dealership will be able to advise you fully. If you have any doubts about the suitability or the condition of your caravan’s tyres please consult a tyre specialist. Remember any tyre defects that you can be prosecuted for on your towing vehicle, also apply to your caravan tyres when towing your caravan on public roads.

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October 13, 2025

Starlink for Caravaners – Which Plan Is Right for You?

Staying connected on the road is for some of us no longer a luxury, it’s how we check the weather, keep in touch with family, stream a movie, or even work from the caravan. For us grey nomads travelling Australia, Starlink has become the go-to option when mobile coverage falls short.

This article aims to explain which plan / strategy is right for you.

How much Data do you use?

This is the first question to ask yourself.

Below is a quick table of roughly how much each activity per user of data could be used.

The biggest data usage is video, by a long way.

Activity	Data Per Hour	50 GB Covers	108 GB Covers
Web browsing / email	~150 MB	~330 hrs	~720 hrs
Video call (HD Zoom/Teams)	~1 GB	~50 hrs	~108 hrs
Music streaming (Spotify, normal)	~70 MB	~715 hrs	~1,540 hrs
YouTube (HD 1080p)	~1.5 GB	~33 hrs	~72 hrs
Netflix (HD 1080p)	~3 GB	~16 hrs	~36 hrs
Netflix (Ultra HD 4K)	~7 GB	~7 hrs	~15 hrs

Starlink Roaming Options

1. Standby Mode $8.50/month

Not a “real plan,” this is what happens when you pause your plan (50GB, or unlimited)
Provides very limited connectivity 0.5Mbps, just enough for messaging, email, weather checks, and reactivating your service.
If you are happy with this very limited access, then you could just stay on this paused plan.

2. 50 GB Plan $80/month

Designed for light to moderate use.
Great for browsing, emails, video calls, some YouTube, and the occasional Netflix session.
Can be extended with top-ups to ~108 GB before it costs more than the Unlimited plan.
Suits couples who are careful with streaming and willing to manage data use.

3. Unlimited Plan $195/month

Higher monthly cost, but you never have to count gigabytes.
Perfect for full-timers who stream TV nightly, work from the van, or don’t want to track usage.
The “hassle-free” option — especially when travelling through areas with patchy mobile coverage.
If you are a family with kids who are on their devices all the time, then this probably what you will need.

Streaming apps on TV

One thing to watch out for: some smart TV apps don’t let you choose resolution. They often default to HD or even 4K if your subscription and network speed allows it, Starlink speed means it is an option that will be allowed.

That means:

Watching the same Netflix show on your phone might use 0.7 GB/hr (SD).
The TV app could chew through 3–7 GB/hr for the exact same program (4K).
It’s not the screen size itself, but the streaming quality chosen automatically by the app.

Tips:

Check if your account settings allow you to set playback quality (e.g. Netflix does, needs to be done for each profile).
Use an external streaming stick (Fire Stick, Chromecast, Apple TV) — these often give you more control.
Consider pre-downloading shows on your phone/tablet over free Wi-Fi, then casting them later.

Changing plans FAQ’s

The Billing Cycle

Starts on the anniversary of first activation of your account
Is paid in advance
When re-activating our account, you pay the pro-rata amount of what is left in your current billing cycle. i.e if re-activating on the 15th, and your billing cycle is 20th of the month, then you will get billed $195/30 X 5 = $32.50 (Roam Unlimited, assuming 30 days in the current month)
When activating your account mid-month, you still get the full 50GB, it is not pro-rata.(50GB Plan)

Can I upgrade my plan mid-month?

Yes. If you go from the 50 GB plan to Unlimited, the change takes effect immediately.
You’ll be billed pro-rata for the remainder of your billing cycle.
Your plan will automatically renew as Unlimited until you change plans again (or pause).

Can I downgrade my plan mid-month?

Not really, you stay on your current plan until the next billing cycle begins.
Starlink does not refund the unused portion of the higher-cost plan.

What happens when I hit 50 GB? (50GB Plan)

You don’t get charged automatically.
Your connection is throttled until you either:
- Wait for the next billing cycle, or
- opt-in to buy extra GB.

Pausing (Standby mode)

This is now called Standby mode
You can pause at any time in your current month, the change wont take place until the end of your current billing cycle.
If you don’t like (need) the Standby-Mode, then you can cancel the service, re-activate when you want it back again. This is cancelling your service, NOT closing your account.

Which Plan should you use?

It all comes down to how much data you think you will use. The best gauge is to look at you internet usage history , most if not all ISP provide in your account page internet usage/month table, or graph, this should be a good guide to what you will use on the road.

Summary

If you are a heavy user of the internet, like watching videos, then the Unlimited plan will be for you (that’s us).

If you are not much of an internet user, don’t watch many videos, then possible the 50GB plan will work for you.

Below is a flow diagram for you to try out.

If you only want very basic internet, then maybe Standby-mode may work.

Summary

Starlink is a game changer. You are pretty much guaranteed full speed (NBN speed) access of the internet anywhere you can get a unobstructed view of the sky. It makes for a good backup to cellular networks, or even as your primary internet access while on the road.

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October 2, 2025

Internet on the road – Tips

Today I will describe how we use, plan, and access the internet while on the road full time. We have been on the road for nearly 1 year, and have picked up a few tips and tricks along the way.

There are a lot of options, and a lot of money that can be spent chasing the internet, our system is pretty good for our needs, and we have access to the internet nearly everywhere we go.

Expectations

The first question to ask yourself, is How important is it to have internet access?

Not Important / don’t care if I have it or not.
I can survive a few days without it.
Important, I want it, need it.
Essential, life is not worth living without it, I need it for work.

For us, we’re in the last 2 categories, internet is pretty dam important, and if it’s not there, and working properly we’re not happy campers, especially if we are somewhere for more than a day or two.

We need our Youtube, Netflix news etc in the evening, and quite often if the TV signal is poor, we rely on streaming services to watch the news and our favourite programs.

What we Use & How

Mobile phones & tablet, tv
Netgear LM1200 4G modem (Telstra sim) – main internet
Starlink – backup internet
Unifi-Express router – the brains of the setup, it does vlans, guest network, IDS, …..

The phones and tablet, can obviously get their own internet, but for the van everything goes through our router, Unifi express. So whether we use the Netgear or Starlink, everything in the van just uses the same network.

We primally use the Netgear 4G modem. The sim card is part of our plan, which has data sharing with our phones, all up we have an allowance of 225GB/month. We use Starlink as backup, we look ahead at how remote we are going, and then think about activating it if needed.

NOTE: Until recently, to un-pause Starlink you needed a working internet connection, recently Starlink has made a change that when you pause Starlink, your account goes into backup mode (limited internet access) so the process of un-pausing your account should be easier.

Cellphone Tower Quality & Capacity

This is the forward thinking part. We look ahead, if we’re going to be remote, or close to small towns, i.e towns with a population less than 1K, then I will look at the app on the phone to see what cellphone towers are about, their capacity, also how far away we will be from the tower.

The above screenshot is from a nifty app called Aus Phone Towers.

Looking at these pics, you can tell straight away that the Optus tower has a lot more capacity than the Telstra tower, also bear in mind the 3G network has been closed down. Why this app stills shows them I have no idea.

Below is a break down of the important bits – (Telstra example)

4G → The technology (LTE).
778 MHz → This is the frequency band the tower is using. In the Telstra’s network, that’s Band 28 (often written as 700/778 MHz). It’s the “long range” band, great for regional coverage because lower frequencies travel further and penetrate walls better.
20 MHz bandwidth → How wide the channel is. Think of it like the width of a lane on the highway: the wider it is, the more cars (data) can travel at once.
Capacity – 395 Mbps → The theoretical maximum download speed the tower can deliver on that channel. Real-world is always lower (often 20–80 Mbps depending on load, distance, and signal).
4×4 MIMO → Multiple Input, Multiple Output. The tower uses 4 antennas each way to send/receive data in parallel.
LTE – FD (Frequency Division duplex) → The uplink and downlink use separate frequency ranges. That’s why you can upload and download at the same time smoothly. Contrast with TDD (Time Division duplex), where up and down share the same channel in time slots.

Also, looking at the description, the Telstra Tower Height is 19m, while the Optus is 49m. Why this is important is line of sight, higher is better.

So looking at this, I am not hopeful of getting a good internet experience in Hopetoun with Telstra, I will probably be using Starlink for our stay there.

I could also in this situation get a Optus sim card and use that.

Starlink

Our Starlink kit is the older one V2, which I have converted to 12v. We do not use the router that came with it.

We are also on the unlimited roaming plan, we pause it when not in use.

It is expensive at $195/month, and you have to activate it per month.

The only requirement here is that you have a clear line of sight of the sky, so normally it’s just trees that can cause problems, also we have noticed that our dish prefers a southerly direction when it is adjusting itself.

With this setup, in the past year, there may have been only 1 or 2 days where we have had no or poor internet. Again, because there have been too many trees in the way.

Summary

Between Telstra & Starlink, you will get internet nearly everywhere. Even at campsites with a lot of trees, so long as you can position yourself with a clear line of sight to the southerly sky, then you will be ok. The few times we have been caught out is because we did not position ourselves correctly due to other factors.

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September 21, 2025

The Peril of Low Clarence Bridges for Caravans

When touring Australia in a caravan, one silent risk often overlooked is low clearance bridges—anything below about 3.2 m can spell disaster. Google Maps won’t warn you about these hazards, and with caravans easily reaching heights of 3.1 m or more, you could be directed straight into trouble.

During our trip where we had to travel through Bairnsdale, VIC, to get to Lake King Waterfront Park we nearly had our caravan damaged. A bridge clearly marked with a 3.2 m height limit loomed ahead—and with our caravan at 3.1 m, we missed disaster by mere centimetres.

So looking back, should we have known what the height of our caravan was? The answer is yes, we did ask at hand over time, but with the passing of time we weren’t sure any more. What we did know was that our van looked awfully close to 3.2 Meters, and the first thing we were going to loose was the A/C unit on the roof.

Tip: put a sticker on the top right of your windscreen with the height of your caravan and car, especially if you have a roof rack and other items stored on top.

Statistics on Caravan Heights

caravans over 3.0 meters high:

On-road caravans: 17.32%
Off-road caravans: 27.88%

As you can see there is a fair amount of caravans which are over 3.0 meters, so when you see a warning for bridge height, pay attention, especially if towing an off-road caravan.

Dangers of Low Clarence Bridges

Zero room for error: Without extra space for antennas or roof fixtures like A/C, a 3.1 m caravan could go past the margin under a 3.2 m bridge.

Limited advance warnings: Local signage exists, but no Google maps or general mapping apps alert you.

High-stakes consequences: Caravans can get ripped apart, cause traffic jams, or even injure people—like the bus strike under Montague Street Bridge in Melbourne, where significant damage and injuries occurred.

Below is a link to video showing what can go wrong when a low clearance bridge is taken on by a caravan. You may need to reload the page to see the video again.

Low Clarence bridges locations

I have attempted to mark on a map where these bridges are. As you can see the vast majority are in the big cities.

NOTE: This is not an exhaustive / complete list of all low clearance bridges in Australia. There probably are others!!

Final Thoughts for Grey Nomads or not so Grey Nomads on the road

Low-clearance bridges present real threats to caravan travelers. With no awareness on Google Maps and limited warning systems, preparation is key. Measure your full load, use RV or trucking apps, stay alert to signage and have alternative routes ready.

An app I have heard other people talk about is Sygic Truck app , now this is an app that can go on your phone, how good it is I am not sure as I have never used it, but it does have the ability to input your setup length and height.

Our encounter near Bairnsdale proved how narrow margins can be – if conditions hadn’t been perfect, we’d have to do a fifty point u-turn, blocking the road completely in the process. Don’t let low bridges derail your Aussie adventure. Plan smart, stay informed, and your caravan will stay clear—literally.

September 19, 2025

Burke River Boulia – Free Campground

This campground, while basic in features, was peaceful, safe and with plenty of trees around, shady. We would definitely stay here again when passing through.

Website: N/A
Fee Category: Free
Booking: No
Powered Sites: No
Dog Friendly: Yes
Amenities: No
Dump point: No, in town
Pool: No
Fire pits: Yes
Telstra: Yes
Starlink: Trees may be a problem
Generator: Yes

A sandy beach next to the river providing easy access to the water for a swim

Our Experience

This is quite a large campground, with lots of places to set yourself up away from other campers. You can also swim in the river, with easy access just a short walk away.

The road goes down into the campground, you veer left at the fork to go closer to the river, or go right, and be further away from the river. The main difference will be the trees, if wanting shade, stay by the river, on the other hand if you want to use Starlink, better off further away form the river, less trees. We had no problems with Telstra reception here.

The ground is relatively level, though if it has been raining it could get very slippery, so caution will be needed.

The campground felt safe, and was peaceful when we where there. Plenty of campers around and having camp fires is a bonus.

There is a sign about 1080 poison, being used in the area, not at the campground, but these things can be carried by birds etc, so some caution needed for your fur babies.

Boulia

Boulia is a tiny settlement on the edge of the desert. It is the administrative centre for the Boulia Shire Council which covers an area of 61,176 sq. km “of rugged landscape, open Mitchell grass downs and channel country which is noted for being one of the best Australian natural wool/beef producing country” as the Mayor of Boulia puts it. This is a true outback experience.
https://www.aussietowns.com.au/town/boulia-qld

Boulia town itself is small, but it is home to the famous Min Min lights, there is the excellent Min Min encounter show , which we thought was very well done. There is also the Heritage Center to have a look at as well.

Basic supplies are available here, just watch out for the hours, the grocery store closes at midday on a Sunday. Caught us out.

Some pics

Average weather

Below is a table for the average weather conditions in the area, take note that during the summer months temps are high and so is the potential for rain.

Weather averages for Boulia

Month	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	June	July	Aug	Sept	Oct	Nov	Dec
Temp Max C	38.5	37.5	35.5	31.6	26.7	23.3	22.9	25.8	30.2	34.3	37.0	38.6
Temp Min C	24.7	24.1	21.9	17.3	12.6	9.1	7.8	9.6	13.7	18.0	21.5	23.5
Rain Avg (mm)	48.0	48.3	36.8	12.8	12.6	10.5	9.6	6.3	7.8	14.0	21.2	30.5

This table will show the average temp min/max rainfall per month

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September 11, 2025

Caravan Wheel Alignment Checks

Tips for Safer Towing and Longer Tyre Life

When you’re towing a caravan across Australia’s vast and varied roads, safety and reliability are everything. One often overlooked factor that can make or break your trip is wheel alignment. A caravan that’s even slightly out of alignment can cause uneven tyre wear, poor handling, increased fuel consumption, and, in the worst cases, dangerous sway on the highway.

Why Wheel Alignment Matters

Tyre life: Misaligned wheels chew through rubber much faster, leading to costly replacements.
Fuel efficiency: More drag equals higher fuel consumption — a hidden cost of misalignment.
Safety: Poor alignment can reduce stability, especially at highway speeds or on rough outback roads.
Stress reduction: A van that tows smoothly takes stress off the tow vehicle, driver, and passengers.

Monitoring Alignment on the Road

Australia’s roads can be unforgiving, potholes, corrugations, and long stretches of uneven bitumen can all knock your caravan’s wheels out of alignment mid-trip. That’s why it’s important to keep an eye on things as you travel.

A simple DIY method I use on my own caravan is marking the alignment adjusters with a permanent marker. This way, I can visually check at a glance if anything has shifted while I’m on the road. It only takes a second during a fuel stop or at a campsite, and it gives you peace of mind.

This method only works if you know the wheel alignment is correct to begin with. So, the best thing to do, before going on any trip, is to load the caravan up and get it wheel aligned professionally.

I have been advised that when you get a new caravan, the initial wheel alignment (if any) would be done on an empty caravan, as the caravan gets loaded up, just like your car the alignment changes.

So if you have just got a new van, or second hand one, best to get a wheel alignment done by someone who knows what they are doing.

Other quick checks:

Look for uneven tyre wear when you stop.
Pay attention to changes in towing feel (does the caravan start pulling to one side?).
Check wheel temperatures after long hauls — one wheel running hotter can be a sign of trouble.

A Habit Worth Keeping

This is something I did from the beginning, when we first got the caravan, I marked the adjusters, and every now and again I poked my head underneath to have a look, they just stayed there, nothing moving. All good.

It was not until we started the Oodnadatta track that the adjusters would start moving, every night, at camp I would check, and get the spanners out and put them back to where they should be.

By the time we got to Alice Springs, I was adjusting them back nearly every night. Even when we left the dirt roads and back on the tar seal, they would still move out of adjustment. It was not until I got a wheel alignment done at Alice Springs that ever since then everything has been ok.

We even went from Alice Springs to Boulia over the Plenty/Donohue Hwy, no problems.

I am convinced, had I not marked the adjusters, I would have not known about the wheel alignment moving, and I would have probably destroyed 2 tyres, or worse got stuck somewhere with a blowout.

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September 3, 2025

Grey Water – How to Deal with it

We have been on the road for 11 months, and my understanding of what happens to waste water in a caravan grey water tank has changed over that time. In the beginning I thought grey water was just that, grey water, what I did not know was it can turn into Black water quickly.

In the not too distant past, when there wasn’t so many travelers dumping the grey water on the ground at campsites probably wouldn’t have caused any problems, but as this lifestyle and caravaning/camping in general has become so much more popular, the volume of grey water getting dumped has increased markedly. So changes are needed as to how grey water is handled.

What is Grey Water?

Grey water is the water that comes from your kitchen sink, shower, washing machine (non toilet waste), it will contain soaps, food waste, hair, dead skin cells and any other grime and gunk that can fit down a plug hole.

In a lot of caravans, it goes into a grey water holding tank and/or straight out on the ground, or down a drain.

Now if you have observed the water coming straight out of the pipe, you may notice it does not have a pungent smell and you would be correct in thinking this is relatively harmless water, ok you wouldn’t drink it, but if you got it on your hands you wouldn’t be too concerned. Also it would be unlikely to harm any plants/wildlife, so in a dry area you would be doing the plants a favor by giving them some extra water.

Where Does Black Water Come From?

The grey water tank in a caravan can contain grey water for an unlimited amount of time, but the problem here is that after a short amount of time, as short as 12 hours in hot humid conditions, the bacteria and other nasties start to multiply, you see, this environment is a perfect breeding ground for bugs/germs.

If you have ever emptied a grey water tank that has contained grey water for a few days or more, then you will immediately notice the smell. Very pungent. Unlike before, with the grey water coming straight out, you would not even want to touch this stuff, let alone smell it. Imagine someone pulling up at a campsite and just dumping this stuff on the ground? If everyone did this we would all be going into cesspits.

So when on the road what should you do with this grey/black water? A difficult question as sometimes you can be in places where it is not easy to get rid of it.

What We Do

We have not been perfect, to begin with we did not appreciate the grey water turning to black water, we learnt this later on. Also the caravan getting a bad smell in it after driving with a partially full grey water tank, yes we have been there, and also scratching our heads as to why was this happening.

So moving forward, after much research and thought, we have put some plans into place to handle grey water responsibly.

If able, don’t store it. Unless there is a sign which says you must be fully self contained, or no grey water on the ground, then it goes on the ground or down the drain straight away.
If possible, use a sullage hose to direct it to a tree or in the bushes.

Minimize water usage.
Caravan parks usually have drains for grey water. Make this your next stop after a campsite that requires you to keep your grey water contained.
Dump points, using a portable container. Many dump points are above road level, meaning getting your sullage hose out won’t work. You won’t be able to empty the grey water tank properly. Use a portable container.

Draining grey water to a portable container

Food scraps are a nightmare for your grey water tank, (and they smell). Scrape leftover food into the bin before washing your dishes, we use wet wipes or paper towels to remove most of the left over foodstuffs off the plate before giving the plates a final wash.
Use biodegradable products

What Not To Do

Don’t let your grey water go into your neighbors campsite
Don’t empty onto the road while driving, easily detectable and fineable and not nice for those following.
Never dump grey water in natural waterways like rivers, lakes, or storm drains. It’s harmful to the environment and often illegal.

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August 29, 2025

Towing Terms Made Simple

GVM, ATM, TBM? Caravan Weights Explained

If you’re thinking about getting into caravaning but haven’t bought a van or a tow vehicle yet, you’re in the perfect position to get things right from the start. Before you fall in love with a caravan at the dealership or grab that dual cab ute on sale, you need to understand one thing: weights.

Acronyms like GVM, ATM, TBM, and GCM aren’t just red tape, they’re make-or-break numbers that will decide what you can tow, how safely you can do it, and whether your setup is even legal.

In this guide, we’ll break down each of the key towing terms, show you how they fit together, and help you avoid the common traps that leave new caravan owners stuck, overloaded, or frustrated.

What All the Caravan and Towing Acronyms Really Mean

Before you buy a caravan or a tow vehicle, get yourself familiar with these key weight terms. They form the rules of the game when it comes to safe and legal towing.

Let’s start with the “empty weights,” but keep in mind—no one tows empty. The loaded figures are what actually matter on the road.

Kerb Weight (Car, Ute, SUV)

The weight of the tow vehicle with a full tank of fuel, all standard fluids, and no passengers or cargo and no accessories, not even a tow-bar.
Why it matters: It’s your starting point to work out how much payload (stuff) you can carry.

Tare Mass (Caravan)

The weight of the caravan or tow vehicle when it leaves the factory. Includes standard equipment but no water, gas, luggage, food, or people.
Why it matters: Tells you how much capacity you have before hitting your legal limits.

Reality check: Kerb weight and Tare are rarely what you’re driving or towing with. You’ll always be over those numbers. In theory, they’re useful. In reality? They’re mostly academic.

GVM – Gross Vehicle Mass

The maximum legal weight of your tow vehicle, fully loaded with driver, passengers, fuel, gear, and if towing the tow ball weight (TBM)
Set by the manufacturer. You can get this upgraded, but bear in mind there are a lot of caveats, like it may not include GCM or rear Axle loads upgrades, then there is pre / post rego, and each state has different rules.
Why it matters: Many people exceed GVM without realizing it, especially when towing.

ATM – Aggregate Trailer Mass

The maximum loaded weight of the caravan when it’s not hitched up.
Includes everything: water, gas, food, clothes, bikes, annexes.
Why it matters: This is the top limit stamped on your caravan compliance plate. Exceed it and you’re illegal. This is where the caravan payload comes in. Too small and you will blow it easily.

TBM – Tow Ball Mass

The downward force the caravan applies to the vehicle’s tow ball.
Usually 8–12% of the ATM, but it depends on loading and caravan design.
Why it matters: It counts toward your car’s GVM and rear axle load. Too heavy, and you could be overloaded even if your van is “legal.”

GTM – Gross Trailer Mass

The caravan’s total weight when hooked up, meaning part of the weight is on the car via the tow ball.
GTM = ATM – TBM
Why it matters: GTM sits on the trailer’s own wheels, so it’s what your caravan axles and suspension are handling.

GCM – Gross Combination Mass

The maximum total weight of the tow vehicle and the caravan combined.
Set by the tow vehicle’s manufacturer.
Why it matters: Even if both your car and van are under their own limits, you can still be over GCM. That’s a common mistake.

Rear Axle Load

Even if you’re under GVM and GCM, you can still be overloaded if your rear axle is carrying too much.
Tow Ball Mass (TBM) transfers directly to the rear axle.
Add a canopy, drawers, fridge, tools, and passengers, all of that piles onto the rear.
Most utes and wagons have lower rear axle limits than you’d expect.

Payload

How much weight you can add to the car or caravan before hitting the GVM or ATM.
Payload: Car=GVM – Kerb (Caravan= ATM – Tare)
Why it matters: Accessories, tools, people, food, water, camping gear—all this eats into your payload.

Where to Find Towing Specs for a Vehicle

Sometimes it is not easy to find on the manufactures website. You can try the handbook for your car or my favorite way is a search through Google on Redbook.com.au, I would do a search like below –

Google search i.e redbook Isuzu D-max 2023, or use the search on redbook.com.au

Find the particular model of car that you have, then scroll down and go to Overview –> Specifications –> Dimensions & Weights

Below are the main specifications we are concerned about for this example vehicle.

Tare Mass 1960 kg
Kerb Weight 2015 kg
Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) 3000 kg
Gross Combination Mass (GCM)5850 kg
Payload 985 kg
Towing Capacity (braked) 3500 kg
Maximum Towball Download (TBM) 350 kg
Maximum Front Axle Load 1450 kg
Maximum Rear Axle Load 1910 kg

For the caravan you should be able to get the ATM from the manufactures site, or the compliance plate.

Summary

Whether you’re towing a small pop-top or a full-size off-road caravan, your tow vehicle needs to match the weight, the purpose, and the legal limits. Here’s a breakdown of the main classes of tow vehicles in Australia with one or two examples for each.

Also you need to consider how long your road trips are going to be, a few weeks/year, then you probably want an all rounder vehicle, longer time frame say a year + then probably might want to move up a size or two.

For maximum stability when towing, you want the tow vehicle to be heavier than the towed vehicle.

1. Dual Cab Utes (Most Common for Touring)

Great balance of towing capacity, payload, and versatility. Perfect for towing most caravans under 3,000 kg.

Isuzu D-MAX — 3,500 kg towing, 6,000 kg GCM, known for reliability and simplicity.
Ford Ranger — 3,500 kg towing, strong GCM and tech, great all-rounder.

2. Large 4WD Wagons (Comfort + Capability)

More comfortable for long-distance touring with the family. Often slightly lower payload than utes, but better ride quality.

Toyota LandCruiser 300 Series — 3,500 kg towing, strong GCM, built for towing big vans.
Nissan Patrol Y62 — 3,500 kg towing, reliable, great option under $90k, same as the Landcruiser, built for towing and off-road conditions.

3. American Pickups (Heavy Towing Power)

Ideal for big caravans, toy haulers, or towing with high payload. Expensive, but very capable.

NOTE: If your GVM goes over 4,500 Kg, you will need to get a LR truck license.

RAM 2500 — up to 12,000kg GCM, with correct setup
Chevrolet Silverado 2500 — Heavy-duty towing, over 12,000 kg GCM, engineered for serious loads.

4. Light Trucks (For Big Vans or Conversions)

For those towing extremely heavy rigs or converting to motorhome/truck + fifth-wheeler setups. Higher GVM and GCM than most utes or 4WDs.

Isuzu NLR 45-150 — 4,500 kg GVM, 8,000 kg GCM, car licence legal.
Hino 300 717 — 6,500+ kg GVM, great base for truck camper builds or heavy towing.

August 18, 2025

Overweight Towing Setups in Australia

Why 3 Out of 4 Fail the Test

As we’ve been travelling around Australia, we’ve come to realise that towing weights aren’t just about caravans. The problem is often the entire setup: tow vehicle and caravan together. You pass other vehicle setups along the road, and ask yourself, “how is that even close to being legal?”

I came across a YouTube video that really drove this home. The numbers were staggering: almost three-quarters of towing rigs tested were overweight somewhere. Here’s what stood out to me—and why anyone planning a lap of Australia needs to pay attention.

Summary

Three-Quarters of Rigs Are Non-Compliant – About 75% of caravan/tow vehicle combinations tested failed somewhere—ATM, GVM, axle load, or towball weight.
Caravans Over Their ATM – Nearly half of caravans were over their Aggregate Trailer Mass, and 29% had unsafe towball mass.
Tow Vehicles Overloaded – Tow vehicles were no better: rear axles (47%) and GVM (40%) were the most common failure points.
American 1500 Trucks Aren’t a Magic Bullet – Nearly 80% of 1500 series pickups failed compliance, mostly because of poor rear axle limits. Without a GVM upgrade, they can’t tow heavy vans legally.
The LandCruiser 200’s Hidden Weakness – Australia’s most popular tow vehicle has just 650 kg of payload, quickly eaten up by passengers, accessories, and towball download. Even with upgrades, 80% of setups failed.
Heavier Vans Drive Vehicle Failures – Caravans averaging 3.3 tonnes put huge pressure on tow vehicles. Lighter vans behind utes or SUVs had fewer compliance issues.
Payload Reality Check – More than half of vans had less than 650 kg payload capacity—barely enough for two adults with water and gear, let alone families.
Accessories Add Up Fast – Fridges, slides, batteries, drawers, and canopies often tip vehicles into overload. A GVM upgrade is often essential, but even then you have to load smart.
Canopies Are Payload Killers – Heavy canopies and trundle drawers add big weight behind the rear axle, one of the worst places to carry extra kilos.

The Realities of Towing

If you find yourself bringing everything—extra tools, every camp gadget, half the shed—it’s time to compromise. Compromising is the answer to staying within legal limits.

The same thing for vehicle accessories, you don’t need everything imaginable on the car.

Even with our modest setup, we are close the the ATM for the caravan, and the TBM (Tow Ball Mass) is getting close to the limit as well.

If you are starting the journey of buying a caravan, then on a reasonably standard vehicle, the following statement should be a good starting point, a good practical shortcut to get you started.

A good starting point is to aim for 70–80% of your vehicle’s maximum tow rating. At 70%, you’ve got a big safety margin. At 80%, you can tow a little more caravan but still stay on the safe side. What you should avoid is running right up at 100% — that’s when the problems begin.”

Final Thoughts

Overweight towing setups are far more common than most travellers realise. It’s not just the caravan—it’s the vehicle, the axles, the towball, the whole rig.

If you’re planning your trip, I strongly suggest watching the video linked above. It shows the scale of the problem and why safe towing in Australia comes down to compromise, smart loading, and sometimes upgrades.

At the end of the day, we’re out here to enjoy the journey. Staying within limits means peace of mind, and an easy drive, so we can enjoy the sunsets.

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August 7, 2025

Tobermorey Station Campground

It definitely was a relief to get to this station. The road from Jervios Station to here is hard going.

To see our travels along the Plenty Hwy, have a look at this post. It describes the route conditions at the time we went through.

Website: Tobermorey Station
Fee Category: Paid
Booking: No
Powered Sites: No
Dog Friendly: Yes
Amenities: Yes
Dump point: No
Pool: No
Fire pits: Yes
Telstra: No
Starlink: No problems
Generator: No (Overflow yes)

Our Experience

This station has prepared the campground a bit better than the last place. There is actual grass to camp on, nice after being in red dirt for the last 2 days.

The amenities block is in a tin shed, it is bigger, with multiple flushing toilets, hot showers for males and females.

There are multiple fire pits spotted around the campground, trees for shelter, and the grounds were reasonable level. A camp kitchen is also available.

Unfortunately for us, when we were there the station was on skeleton staff, so nothing was open, except the gas pumps, and the campground. There is a bar and a shop.

Petrol and Diesel is available, at outback prices.

Some Pics

There are free camps along the Plenty / Donohue Hwy, but why not support these stations along the way, and make you trip a bit more comfortable.

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August 7, 2025

Jervois Station Campground

This was our first stop over when doing the Plenty Hwy. At 340 Km from Alice Springs, and being a relatively easy drive, it was good to get here, as we were uncertain as to what to expect of the Plenty Hwy.

You can read more about our time on the Plenty Hwy here.

Website: N/A
Fee Category: Paid
Booking: No
Dog Friendly: Yes
Amenities: Combined toilet / shower
Dump point: No
Pool: No
Fire pits: Yes
Telstra: No
Starlink: No problems
Generator: ?

Our Experience

This is a basic campground, we paid $20 for the night, firepits are placed around the campground, just pick one to park next to.

There is no powered sites here.

The facilities are basic, but clean enough. They are combined toilet and shower, one each for males and females. Bonus is the toilets are flushing and the showers are hot. That’s pretty good considering how remote this place is.

The more important thing to consider is fuel, there is petrol and diesel here. The tuck shop has basic supplies, drinks, chippies, chocolate.

The campground felt safe, as well as being relatively level, there is the typical red dirt everywhere.

Some Pics

You can free camp along the Plenty Hwy, but why not support these Stations, and maybe the facilities will make the journey a bit more pleasurable.

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August 7, 2025

The Plenty/Donohue Hwy Conditions

We have recently completed the Plenty/Donohue Hwy, starting from Alice Springs going over the Queensland border the highway becomes Donohue Hwy to Boulia. An epic 750 Km stretch of road.

When we wanted to go from Birdsville to Alice Springs in 2019, we gave the Plenty hwy a miss due to it being too rough. We drove up to Berkely Hwy, then back down to Alice Springs. A massive detour. This is why the Plenty/Donohue Hwy is sometimes described as the world’s longest shortcut.

Back then, we stayed at the Gemtree Campground, during our stay we were advised that there was a plan is to completely seal the Plenty Hwy by 2025.

I can advise , that as by the date of this post, the Plenty/Donohue Hwy is about 50% sealed.

We split this journey up into 3 sections, Alice Springs to Jervios Station, next section is to Tobermory Station, then the last section is to Boulia.

Road conditions

KM from start of Plenty Hwy	Description
0 – 171	Sealed
171 – 210	Un sealed, pretty good condition
210 – 271	Sealed
271 – 277	Unsealed, road works, – Jervios Station
277 – 507	Unsealed, Bull dust in sections, deep ruts in places.
507	Tobermorey Station
510 – 551	Sealed
551 – 572	Un-sealed, but relatively smooth, easy going
572 – 581	Sealed
581 – 627	Un-sealed, relatively smooth, easy going
627 – 750	Sealed to the end

Some pics

Summary

Getting to Jervios Station was not too difficult, with about 45 Km unsealed, and non of it too challenging. Ruts to deal with, but not too severe.

The toughest part is between the 2 stations. Google maps will say 6 – 7 hours, for a stretch that is about 230 Km long. We managed it in about 4.5 hours, and that was taking our time, with as much care as possible. Our average speed in this section was about 70 Km, we also lowered our tyre pressures. Bull dust patches need to be handled with care, especially if towing a caravan.

From Tobermorey Station to Boulia (Donohue Hwy), this is the easiest stretch, even the unsealed parts are some of the smoothest we have come across, not many areas had much in the way of ruts to deal with.

Checking Present Road Conditions

Before embarking on this trip you should check to see present road conditions –

Plenty Hwy – NT

Donohue Hwy – QLD

These roads can flood easily, this will make them un-passable.

Also time of year, This is NOT a summer road, November – April, temps will get close to if not exceed 40 C, also this is the wet season, so expect flash flooding.

It was an adventure, not one I am keen to repeat too soon. Would I do it again? Yes I would, especially in a few years time, as hopefully they have made more progress on sealing the road.